Day trip to Esna from Luxor
Esna is 55km south of Luxor and its Temple of Khnum has emerged from a decade of restoration with astonishing painted ceilings — a half-day trip, easily.
How to get there
Private taxi with waiting is $30-40 for the round trip, four hours total. Faster: the second-class morning train from Luxor to Esna ($1) takes 90 minutes but the station is 3km from the temple, so add a tuk-tuk. Most Nile cruises stop at Esna to pass the lock; if you’re on one, you’ll see the temple anyway.
The temple that reappeared
Entry $6. The Temple of Khnum sits 9m below modern street level in a pit in the middle of the old town. A German-Egyptian restoration team spent 2018-2023 cleaning centuries of soot from the ceiling and the results are extraordinary — vultures, zodiac signs and hieroglyphs in original blue, red and gold. Just 24 columns are visible; the rest is buried under the modern town. Give it 90 minutes.
Around the temple
The Esna souq around the temple is one of the oldest continuously trading markets in Upper Egypt. Wander the caravanserai and the old wikala on your way back to the car. Lunch options are basic; hold out for dinner back in Luxor.
Frequently asked questions
What people ask before they set off on this one.
Two hours on site is plenty. Half a day door to door from Luxor.
The ceiling and column capitals are done. Wall cleaning continues in phases through 2025.
Yes — with Edfu (another 60km south) for a full southern temple day. Add $20 to the taxi.
Yes without flash. The colours photograph well in the natural top-light.
Hotels in Luxor
Hotels we cover across Luxor
- Dahabiya Princess Donia 3★
- Dar Lina Guesthouse Luxor 3★
- Desert Pearl Beautiful Cosy New Home 3★
- Dream house luxor 3★
- El Gezira Garden Hotel Luxor 3★
- El Gezira Hotel 3★
- El Hady Guesthouse 3★
- Eldeak Hotel Apartments 3★
- Eljuneina Villas 3★
- Elminaa Residents 2 3★
- Elphardous Oasis Hotel 3★
- Elsanosy Family Guest House Luxor 3★
- Embrace Guest House 3★
- Embrace Hotel 3★
- Emilio Hotel 3★
- Enjoy Luxor 3★
- Excellent Nile cruise 4 & 6 Nights 3★
- Eyaru Palace 3★
- Eyaru Palace Nile View 3★
- Eye House 3★
- Eye Of Horus House 3★
- Family Flat With Breakfast 3★
- Family Villa 3★
- Farida Palace 3★
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